The 1916-D Mercury dime sold for $195,500 in MS-67 Full Bands — yet most circulated 1916 dimes trade for under $20. Knowing your mint mark is everything. Use the free tools below to find exactly what your coin is worth.
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If you're not sure of your coin's mint mark or condition, there's a free 1916 Mercury Dime Coin Value Checker online tool that lets you upload a photo and get an AI-powered identification in seconds.
The 1916-D is the most counterfeited U.S. coin. Run through this quick checklist before you get excited — or overpay.
The D mint mark looks raised, slightly off-center, or has a different surface texture than the surrounding metal. Tool marks, glue traces, or a halo of disturbed metal are visible under a loupe around the letter. The coin may be in suspiciously high grade for what would be an extremely rare coin.
The D mint mark flows naturally from the die — same luster, same metal flow as surrounding areas. No seam, no tool marks, no raised border around the letter. The coin is typically found in well-worn grades (AG through Fine). PCGS or NGC certification is strongly recommended before purchasing or selling.
Check the four key diagnostic points:
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Unlike some coin series, the 1916 Mercury dime has no major recognized die varieties such as doubled dies or overdates. Its error landscape is dominated by striking errors — production mistakes that happened at the moment of coining. Each of the documented types below commands a premium above the coin's base value, and some are exceptionally scarce. Use a 10× loupe to examine your coin carefully before concluding it's just a regular issue.
An off-center strike occurs when the planchet is not properly positioned between the dies at the moment of impact. The result is a coin where part of the design is missing, replaced by a blank crescent of unstruck metal along one side. The degree of off-centering is expressed as a percentage — a 50% off-center coin has roughly half its design missing.
For the 1916 Mercury dime, a PCGS-graded example struck approximately 95% off-center carries a documented value of around $5,000. At that extreme degree, the coin is dramatically different from a normal dime, with most of the Winged Liberty portrait absent and the date barely visible at the edge of the surviving design.
Value depends primarily on two factors: how much of the design remains, and whether the date is still readable. For a date as historically significant as 1916 — the first year of the Mercury dime series — a well-off-center example with a legible date attracts serious collector interest. Errors in the 10%–30% off-center range with full dates are the most commercially appealing combination.
A broadstrike occurs when the retaining collar — the metal ring that constrains the planchet during striking and imparts the reeded edge — fails to engage properly. Without the collar's constraint, the planchet spreads outward under the die's force, producing a coin that is wider and flatter than a normal dime, with a smooth, unfinished rim rather than reeding.
For the 1916 Mercury dime, broadstrikes are genuinely scarce but documented. A 1916-S Mercury dime uncentered broadstrike graded PCGS MS-61 has a documented value of approximately $350, with an MS-63 FB example commanding around $450. The combination of a broadstrike with the full bands designation on the reverse is an especially desirable pairing that collectors prize.
The diagnostic feature is straightforward: the coin is measurably wider than the standard 17.9 mm diameter, the edge is smooth rather than reeded, and the design elements near the rim appear spread or slightly distorted. The overall planchet shape may also be slightly irregular rather than perfectly round, depending on how the collar failed during the strike.
In the era of the 1916 Mercury dime, mint marks were individually punched into each working die by hand using a separate punch. This manual process sometimes required the mint mark to be struck into the die more than once — either to deepen the impression or to correct a placement error. When the second punch landed in a slightly different position, both impressions transferred to every coin struck from that die, creating a repunched mint mark (RPM) error.
On a 1916 Mercury dime with an RPM, the S or D mint mark on the reverse will appear slightly doubled under magnification, with a shadow, ghost, or partial second letter visible adjacent to the primary mint mark impression. The degree of separation between the primary and secondary punch determines the coin's collectibility and premium value. A strongly spread RPM is far more visually compelling than a faint one.
While no specific 1916 RPM has been designated with a formal FS (Fivaz-Stanton) number in the major references, these errors do occur and add a meaningful premium for collectors who specialize in Mercury dime die varieties. The value above a normal coin depends heavily on how dramatically the secondary punch is displaced and the overall grade of the host coin.
Die cracks form when the steel working die develops fractures during use from the repeated stress of striking hundreds of thousands of coins. These fractures appear on struck coins as raised, irregular lines — the crack in the die creates a void that metal flows into during striking, leaving a raised ridge on the coin's surface. A "cud" is a more dramatic version: a chunk of the die breaks away entirely, leaving a raised blob of metal — typically at or near the rim — on every coin struck from that point forward.
For the 1916 Mercury dime, die cracks add a modest but real premium above the coin's base grade value. The premium is proportional to the size, location, and visual drama of the crack. Cracks running through the main design elements — such as Liberty's portrait on the obverse or the fasces on the reverse — are more desirable than hairline cracks in flat field areas. A cud at the rim is the most dramatic and most sought-after die failure type.
These are among the more commonly encountered errors for the 1916 series, as die life was shorter in that era and quality control varied. The value premium is typically modest — coins-value.com documents a comparable die failure adding a modest premium over the coin's base grade — but for low-mintage dates like the 1916-D, even a small crack adds interest to an already desirable coin.
A clipped planchet error occurs at the very beginning of the coin's production process, before striking even begins. When blanks are punched from a strip of silver sheet metal, the blanking press occasionally strikes an area that overlaps with a hole left by a previously punched blank. The resulting planchet has a section "clipped" from its circumference — either curved (the most common type) or straight, depending on the nature of the overlap.
On a 1916 Mercury dime clipped planchet, a section of the coin's edge is missing, replaced by a flat or curved void. The surrounding metal near the clip shows the "Blakesley effect" — a weakness in the design opposite the clip — because the metal that should have flowed into that area was absent during the original blanking. This Blakesley weakness is the key diagnostic for confirming a genuine planchet clip versus post-mint damage.
A 1916 Mercury dime clipped planchet error combined with an additional off-center strike has been documented with a value of approximately $98 on the secondary market. Larger clips, especially those exceeding 10% of the coin's circumference, command stronger premiums. Clips near major design elements such as the date or Liberty's portrait add additional collector interest beyond the mechanical premium.
| Mint | Mint Mark | Mintage | Estimated Survivors (all grades) | Key Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Philadelphia | None | 22,180,080 | Several million | Most common 1916 issue; many saved as first-year coins |
| San Francisco | S | 10,450,000 | Several hundred thousand | Scarcer than Philadelphia in high grades; desirable in gem |
| Denver | D | 264,000 | ~10,000 (PCGS estimate) | ⭐ Key date — lowest mintage in the entire Mercury dime series |
| Total 1916 | — | 32,894,080 | — | First year of Mercury (Winged Liberty Head) dime design |
The Denver Mint halted 1916 dime production in November 1916 after receiving emergency orders from Mint Director von Engelken to strike 4 million Barber quarters instead. By the time Denver resumed dime coinage, new 1917-dated dies had arrived — and the 1916-D had become an accidental key date. PCGS estimates only about 1% of the surviving ~10,000 examples qualify as mint state.
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For a thorough explanation of how each variety is graded, see this detailed 1916 Mercury dime identification walkthrough with photos and pricing context for every grade tier.
| Variety | Worn (AG–G) | Circulated (VG–EF) | Uncirculated (AU–MS63) | Gem (MS64–MS67) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1916 Philadelphia (no mark) | $5 – $9 | $11 – $55 | $70 – $180 | $210 – $470+ |
| 1916 Philadelphia — Full Bands | N/A | N/A | $95 – $280 | $400 – $1,998+ |
| 1916-S San Francisco | $5 – $12 | $12 – $60 | $75 – $200 | $225 – $600+ |
| ⭐ 1916-S — Full Bands | N/A | N/A | $100 – $300 | $475 – $1,500+ |
| 🔴 1916-D Denver (KEY DATE) | $750 – $1,350 | $1,750 – $8,000 | $11,000 – $21,600 | $25,000 – $195,500 |
| 1916-D — Full Bands (FB) | N/A | N/A | $12,000 – $28,000 | $64,050 – $195,500 |
Values based on PCGS Price Guide, CoinWorld, and Heritage Auctions data. The 1916-D row reflects the key date premium — all examples must be authenticated by PCGS or NGC. Row highlighted in yellow = signature variety. Row highlighted in red = key date with extreme value range.
📱 CoinKnow lets you snap a photo of your 1916 Mercury dime and get an instant variety and value estimate on the go — a coin identifier and value app.
Grading determines value more than almost any other factor. Use a single light source and tilt the coin slowly to catch wear on the highest points.
Heavy circulation has flattened most design details. Liberty's portrait is visible but lacks hair or wing definition. The LIBERTY lettering merges with the rim. The fasces on the reverse show little to no rod detail. For the 1916-D, even heavily worn examples are valuable — grade doesn't diminish the key date premium as severely as it would for common coins.
Design elements are progressively clearer as grade increases. By Fine (F-12), all major design features are visible. By Very Fine (VF-20), hair strands and wing detail become distinguishable. By Extra Fine (EF-40), only the highest points — Liberty's cheekbone and the central fasces bands — show noticeable wear, with remaining details sharp and defined.
At About Uncirculated (AU), only the slightest wear appears on the very highest points — Liberty's cheek and the fasces bands. Full mint luster covers most surfaces. True mint state (MS60–MS63) shows no wear at all; any imperfections are contact marks or luster breaks from bag friction, not from circulation. The 1916 issue typically comes with satiny (rather than frosty) luster.
The finest examples show full mint luster across all surfaces with only minimal contact marks visible under magnification. At MS-65, marks are very light and eye appeal is above average. MS-66 and MS-67 coins are virtually perfect. The coveted Full Bands (FB) designation — confirming sharply split horizontal central bands on the fasces reverse — adds a substantial premium at all gem grades.
🔍 CoinKnow helps you match your coin's surface details to graded examples in its database — a coin identifier and value app.
Different venues suit different coins. A $5 worn Philadelphia dime sells best in one place; a $50,000 1916-D in MS-65 belongs in another.
The best option for any certified 1916-D Mercury dime or a gem-quality 1916-P/S with Full Bands. Heritage consistently achieves record prices for key date Mercury dimes and has a deep pool of motivated bidders for this series. Their auctions are the source of the $94,000 and $195,500 sales on record. Expect a 20% buyer's premium, but seller's fees are competitive. Submit 60–90 days before major sale events.
Excellent for common 1916 Philadelphia and San Francisco issues in all grades. The active Mercury dime collector community means quick sales for fairly priced coins. Review recent sold prices for 1916 Mercury dimes on eBay before listing to calibrate your asking price accurately. PCGS and NGC certified coins command stronger premiums and sell faster here. Avoid listing raw (uncertified) 1916-D coins — buyer skepticism about fakes is high.
Quick, convenient, and no shipping risk. Dealers typically pay 50–70% of retail value for common dates — acceptable for a worn 1916 Philadelphia dime if convenience matters more than maximum return. For a 1916-D or any gem-quality piece, get multiple dealer offers and compare against the calculator estimate above before accepting any single bid. Some dealers specialize in Mercury dimes and pay stronger premiums for key dates.
A peer-to-peer marketplace that bypasses dealer markups. Works well for mid-grade 1916 Philadelphia and San Francisco dimes in the $10–$200 range. Community knowledge is high — be accurate in your description and photos, or collectors will call it out. Not recommended for 1916-D sales due to authentication concerns; certified coins only if you go this route.
The free calculator covers all three 1916 mints, every condition tier, and key error premiums. Takes 30 seconds.
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